Hiking and Related Terms
Leave No Trace Backpacking
Backpacking Equipment
Geocaching
Hiking with Your Dog
Hiking and Related Terms
Hiking is one of the most beneficial and healthy
hobbies anyone could choose to adopt. The fresh
air and sun, aerobic walking, and up-close
exposure to natural features such as streams,
forests and mountainsides help to compensate for
many of the physical and mental stresses or the
work week.
In the United States and United Kingdom, hiking
refers to cross-country walking of a longer
duration than a simple walk and usually over
terrain where hiking boots are required. A day
hike refers to a hike that can be completed in a
single day, often applied to mountain hikes to a
lake or summit, but not requiring an overnight
camp, in which case the term backpacking is
used. Bushwhacking specifically refers to
difficult walking through dense forest,
undergrowth, or bushes, where forward progress
requires pushing vegetation aside. In extreme
cases of bushwhacking where the vegetation is so
dense that human passage is impeded, a machete
is used to clear a pathway. Australians use the
term bushwalking for both on- and off-trail
hiking. New Zealanders use tramping
(particularly for overnight and longer trips),
walking or bushwalking. Multi-day hiking in the
mountainous regions of India, Nepal, North
America, South America, and in the highlands of
East Africa is also called trekking; the Dutch
refer to trekking also. Hiking a long-distance
trail from end-to-end is also referred to as
trekking and as thru-hiking in some places, for
example on the Appalachian Trail or Long Trail
in Vermont. The Long Trail is the oldest
long-distance hiking trail in the United States.
Hiking can be combined with an endless number of
outdoor activities. It can be on trail or off;
it can be done as day hikes or overnight
backpacking. But hiking can also be paired with
other activities, such as canoeing, kayaking,
river rafting, snowshoeing, cross-country
skiing, or mountain climbing. It can be
combined with horseback riding and/or with pack
animals, such as llamas (which are considered
earth-friendly, since their feet are softer on
the trail than hooves).
Leave No Trace Backpacking
Hikers often seek beautiful natural environments
in which to hike. These environments are often
fragile: hikers may accidentally destroy the
environment that they enjoy. While the action of
an individual may not strongly affect the
environment, the mass effect of a large number
of hikers can degrade the environment. For
example, gathering wood in an alpine area to
start a fire may be harmless if done once
(except for wildfire risk). Years of gathering
wood, however, can strip an alpine area of
valuable nutrients. Generally, protected areas
such as parks have regulations in place to
protect the environment. If hikers follow such
regulations, their impact can be minimized. Such
regulations include forbidding wood fires,
restricting camping to established camp sites,
disposing or packing out fecal matter, imposing
a quota on the number of hikers per mile. Many
hikers espouse the philosophy of “Leave No
Trace,” which is hiking in a way such that
future hikers cannot detect the presence of
previous hikers. Practitioners of this
philosophy obey its strictures, even in the
absence of area regulations. Followers of this
practice follow strict practices on dealing with
food waste, food packaging, and alterations to
the surrounding environment. Leave No Trace
camping has become an increasingly popular (and
necessary) approach to travel in wilderness
areas. As the term suggests, the goal is for
campers to have as little impact as possible on
the location they are visiting. One of its
mottos is "Take nothing but pictures. Leave
nothing but footprints." Its simplest and most
fundamental rule is: pack it in and pack it out,
but it goes beyond that.
Many places where Leave No Trace
camping is required feature established trails.
Stick to them as much as possible. Though it’s
all right to leave footprints, keep them where
they'll do the least harm. Especially if the
trail is narrow, walk single-file instead of
side by side. If you come to a muddy section in
a trail, walk through it rather than stepping to
the side and walking around; if your boots can't
handle a little mud, you are wearing the wrong
footwear. Don't take shortcuts across
switchbacks on steep slopes; not only does this
cut new trails into the terrain, but the new
shortcuts will become especially prone to
erosion. When walking in an area without
established trails, the approach is almost the
opposite. Rather than trying to concentrate your
impact (such as on a single trail) the idea is
to disperse it as much as possible. Try to avoid
following trails others have left, because that
tends to make them larger and more damaging.
Several people walking single file etch a shared
trail more deeply, but each member of your party
can instead tread more lightly on his own path.
Keep your group small; split up a troop of 10 to
take more than one route to your destination.
Walk on the most durable ground you can: rock
instead of dirt, dead grasses instead of live
plants, hard wet sand instead of loose dry sand,
dry soil instead of muddy, etc.
When sleeping, if you’re using
an area with established campsites, Leave No
Trace is generally as simple as leaving the site
in the same condition you found it. Don't build
a fire pit, don't haul in a log to sit on, etc.
The Boy Scouts used to teach kids to dig a
drainage ditch around their tent, but this is
both hard on the site and unnecessary if your
tent has adequate weather-proofing. (Also, it's
no longer in the Boy Scout manual; they teach
Leave No Trace principles now.) If there are no
established sites, take care in selecting where
to camp. In addition to the pragmatic
considerations of level ground with protection
from the elements, look for durability. Firm,
dry ground with minimal vegetation is best.
Avoid pitching your tent on fragile plants that
won't be able to recover from your stay. A
pre-existing layer of pine needles on the ground
makes for a surprisingly comfortable mat. If you
find a good site that looks like it's been used
recently, don't use it; find another site and
let this one recover a little longer. Stay some
distance from lakeshores, where the ground tends
to be more wet and fragile, and where wildlife
might be accustomed to visiting at night.
Regarding food, if you're traveling for only a
day or two, you can bring along fresh fruit,
breadstuffs, and other semi-perishables and pack
out any parts you can't eat (e.g. orange peels,
apple cores). Although they're biodegradable,
peels and cores shouldn't be left behind--if you
leave them out in the open they'll be an
eyesore, and if you bury them something's
probably just going to dig them up. And you
definitely don't want to risk seeds germinating
and introducing a new species to the area. Keep
your food (and trash) away from the “locals.”
The appropriate methods depend on what kind of
wildlife lives where you are. Bears in
Yellowstone have graduated from stealing picnic
baskets to breaking into cars. It is doing the
bears (and deer and chipmunks, and squirrels,
etc.) no favors if we’re weaning them onto human
food. For longer trips, freeze-dried foods are
the best option, being easy to carry, easy to
prepare, and easy to keep from impacting the
environment. And they're really that bad on
flavor. Most commercial backpacking foods can be
reconstituted with boiling water in their own
packaging, which can be sealed up in a plastic
bag after eating, for packing out. (You can
reduce the packaging even more by transferring
the contents to a sturdy, less bulky, plastic
baggie. As long as the baggie stays sealed, it
will easily keep for several days.)
Building fires is generally out of the question,
not only because of the risk of turning fire
risk, but also because it requires collecting
firewood and often leaves unconsumed logs and
ash behind. It is much better to use a clean,
gas-powered camp stove, which can weigh less
than a pound and is generally more efficient at
boiling water than an open fire. If you have to
build a fire, keep it in an existing fire ring
or improvise a temporary one. Use only small
dead branches found lying on the ground, let
them burn entirely, and scatter the ashes when
they’re cool.
Washing up after dinner can become an art.
Ironically, using disposable "dishes" (such as
the pouch your freeze-dried beef stew came in)
is easiest on the environment in this situation,
because all you need to do is pack them out for
land-filling at home. Coffee cups can be rinsed
out with a little clean water and reused later
by the same person without raising many hygiene
concerns. If you need to wash a cooking pan,
first clean out as much of the food as possible.
Wash it with as little biodegradable soap as you
can get away with, using hot water to do most of
the work instead. Scatter this dishwater away
from the camp sites and far from any natural
water sources. Better yet, bury it, which helps
the soap to actually biodegrade.
For personal hygiene, brushing your teeth with
toothpaste is a good habit. But you won’t be
risking any serious tooth decay or gum disease
by brushing without it for several days.
Brushing without your toothpaste means one less
strongly-scented germicide you'll be spitting
into the environment. You also have permission
to skip flossing-- you're on vacation.
Drinking water itself isn't a Leave-No-Trace
issue, but if you're camping this way, you'll
probably be drawing it from untreated sources
such as lakes and streams. Check with local
authorities to see what precautions they
recommend for known pathogens in the area.
Boiling it for several minutes, pumping it
through a micro-pore filter, and/or treating it
with microbe-killing chemicals such as iodine is
usually necessary help ensure you don't become
ill from your trip. If you use an instant
coffee, you won't have to worry about disposing
of the grounds. Tea bags need to be packed out,
using the Leave No Trace philosophy. Tang™,
Kool-Aid™, and other powdered drinks are good if
you want something sweet to cover up the taste
of iodine. Needless to say, if you bring
packaged drinks such as juice, soda/pop, or
alcohol, you should carry out your empties with
you.
Purists say that "pack it in, pack it out"
applies to human wastes as well. After all, we
do that for our dogs when we take them for a
walks in the city. Unless it’s required by the
specific environment, most No Trace campers will
leave some trace. This doesn’t mean, however,
that you should be indiscriminate. Your wastes
are not only distracting (especially to
wildlife) but are also a potential source of
disease. Fortunately they're biodegradable, and
nature has systems for rendering them harmless
over time. Urinate at least a few dozen feet
from any trails and well away from water sources
used by wildlife or fellow campers. Try to avoid
urinating directly on plants, and preferably do
it in a spot where it will either quickly dry on
the rocks, or be soaked into the soil. Feces
should be buried at least 200 feet (60 m) from
water sources. Bring a garden trowel with you,
so you can dig a "cat hole" to bury it in, at
least six inches (15 cm) deep and wide enough
that you won't fill it up. Fill the hole back up
and "disguise" it when you're done. Use
unscented toilet paper as sparingly as you can,
and either pack it out in sealable baggies or
bury it along with the feces.
If you want souvenirs of your excursion, you
should either seek out a shop associated with
the park where you're camping or bring a camera
and take photos. Maybe bring a little notepad
and keep a journal of your adventure. Removing
interesting rocks, artifacts, or other items
means they won't be there for the next person to
"discover.” It might also be a violation of park
rules, or even the law.
Backpacking Equipment
First of all, one needs something to carry the
equipment in. This can be simple fisherman's
jacket or a daypack for short hikes, or a full
backpack. Next, consider which gear or
equipment you’ll need for your particular trip.
While hiking is considered different from
backpacking (overnight camping), even for a day
trip it is prudent to pack at least rudimentary
items, should the unexpected happen (including
being forced to stay the night, getting lost, or
accidents). Hiking equipment may be put into
several categories, such as items worn, items
carried, essential gear, food and drink, and
miscellaneous. The criteria for packing an item
include weight, bulk (size), number of
alternative uses, and the chances of each of
those likely to be needed, weighed against their
importance. For example, a whistle may seem
unlikely to become necessary, but it can be real
life saver and weighs next to nothing. Other
items, like a sleeping bag, can also be
important but can also be very restricting, so a
simpler alternative (such as an extra layer of
clothing) might be a better idea.
The hiker will generally consider clothing items
based on the expected weather and demands of the
particular hike location. For example, rain or
snow would require different gear than a desert
environment.
• Footwear - Many hikers wear hiking
boots or shoes. These come in a variety of high
top (better ankle support) or low top (more
comfortable) styles. Some hikers wear various
rugged outdoor sandals. Footwear should be
rugged enough for the terrain envisioned (hiking
boots for a rocky mountain, vs. sneakers on a
paved rail trail). Hikers will generally
consider water proofing the boots or shoes based
on the weather (rain, snow or slush), and the
nature of the trail (swampy or wet). Along with
footwear most hikers should also consider socks
that will help wick sweat from the hiker's feet,
provide warmth, and provide buffering inside the
shoe.
• Headwear for providing cooling in
the summer, warmth in the snow, and protection
from sun
• Pocket knife, possibly with a tin
opener and a saw
• Flashlight plus spare batteries
and bulb
• Trail maps with sufficient detail
to be meaningful
• Compass - Roughly knowing which
way is North can already make a huge difference.
It is also helpful to know the declination from
Magnetic North to True North applicable to your
location. A GPS can be substituted, but remember
to bring spare batteries.
• First aid kit
• Matches and/or a lighter and
possibly a flint or magnifying glass (always
work, even when wet)
• Tinder, plus knowledge of how to
start a fire. In emergencies, a campfire can be
one of the biggest life savers (warmth and
signaling) and it is not as easy to make as some
might think. A fire also keeps up the spirits,
which can also be a life saver.
• Candles for light but also a
useful aid to start a fire
• Water flask, plus water if needed
• Water purification kit with
tablets and/or filter
• Food, preferably with a low water
content to keep the weight down (if water is
readily available on the spot)
• Plastic bags of various types and
sizes to keep things dry and pack things out.
Ziploc bags are very practical because they are
easily closed and opened. Garbage bags can be
not only be used to line the backpack, but also
used to put in one's shoes to keep the feet
warm, even when the socks are already wet.
• Insect repellent
• Mat - Even a small thin one can
make a difference in emergencies
• Sleeping bag (and/or liner)
• Clothes are best worn in layers,
so one can easily adapt to changing
circumstances. So two thin sweaters make more
sense than one thick one. Also, on overnight
trips, keep one set of clothes dry for evenings
and nights (e.g., a jogging suit) and put the
day clothes back on before walking again, even
if they are wet.
• A warm hat or cap, even when no
cold weather is expected. Per weight and volume,
this is the best insulator because a lot of body
heat escapes through the head (thus the saying
"If your feet are cold, put on a hat")
• Big handkerchief for various
purposes, such as a rough water filter, a thin
scarf or a bandana to keep the sweat out of
one's eyes (make sure it’s big enough for those
purposes)
• Rain jacket or parka, preferably
either one that fits over the backpack or is
accompanied by a separate pack liner
• Boots - Often heavy boots with
soles with a thick profile and high heels are
recommended to avoid twisted ankles after a
misstep, which is one of the worst things that
can happen to a solo hiker. However, heavy boots
put a lot of weight where it is least desirable
and are thus exhausting. A less popular
alternative philosophy is to use light trainers
with thin soles so one can feel the ground one
walks on and avoid making missteps in the first
place.
• Socks - As with boots, special
attention should be given to socks (e.g., no
irritating ridge above the toes). Footwear is
obviously essential for long distance walking.
• Toilet paper or paper napkins,
also handy as kindling
• Sunscreen and sun glasses - These
may be essential for those who are easily
sunburned, e.g., fair-skinned people who rarely
go outside. This especially applies to hikes
over snow, travel across water or (to a lesser
degree) sand. The reflection of snow can lead to
snow blindness.
Geocaching
A new craze for hiking buffs is an activity
called geocaching. Geocaching is an outdoor
activity in which the participants use a Global
Positioning System (GPS) receiver or other
navigational techniques to hide and seek
containers (called "geocaches" or "caches")
anywhere in the world. A typical cache is a
small waterproof container (usually a Tupperware
container or ammo box) containing a logbook.
Larger containers can also contain items for
trading, usually toys or trinkets of little
value. Geocaching is most often described as a
"game of high-tech hide and seek," sharing many
aspects with benchmarking, orienteering,
treasure-hunting, letterboxing, and waymarking.
Geocaches are currently placed in over 100
countries around the world and on all seven
continents, including Antarctica. As of June 22,
2010, there are over 1,108,858 active geocaches
around the world. If you access the Official
Global GPS Cache Hunt Site online, you can
participate in local searches by entering a zip
code, or you can hunt in larger areas,
nationally or internationally. There are
organized geocaching events hosted
internationally. And, since this aspect of the
hobby uses new technology, there are GPS devices
that come with pre-loaded geocache listings.
And yes, there’s an iPhone application for
that.
Hiking with Your Dog
A growing number of hikers will not consider
hiking without their dogs. Many companies now
specialize in the manufacture of dog-sized
packs, collapsible bowls, and even booties for
rough or cold terrain. The packs come in
various sizes so that the dogs may carry their
own food and/or bowls. If the dog is employed to
carry food or supplies belonging to the human
hikers, it is referred to as a storage dog, (not
to be confused with a guide dog or service
dog). Here are some tips for hiking with your
canine best friend. First, have a good
understanding of how much exercise your dog can
handle. Some dogs tend to be only “sprinters,”
and are best at the more level, pre-established
trails. An hour or two (or even less) from
start to finish may be all they can possibly
handle. This is nothing to be ashamed of,
especially if you remember that dogs were bred
for different purposes. It is important to
remember not to push your dog beyond its current
ability level—you can always increase the
distances with time. In fact, hiking is a great
preventative for a number of physical and
behavioral canine disorders. Have your
veterinarian check your dog’s health before
making any big changes in its activity level.
Before your first hike, make sure your dog has a
collar with identification tags (including one
with your vet’s phone number). If you have a
larger breed, don’t feel bad about having your
dog wear a properly sized pack so he can carry
his own supplies. You can your dog used to a
pack by having him wear an empty one on short
walks or around the house (with supervision).
Add weight gradually, and don’t forget to
include treats so your friend will begin to
associate the pack with positive experiences and
adventures. A rule of thumb is that a dog can
comfortably carry 25% of its body weight. Don’t
put anything breakable in the pack, and make
sure everything inside it is sealed in plastic
bags. Common contents of a dog pack are food,
small amounts of water, and poop bags. If
you’re bringing your dog along, it is especially
important that you remember a first aid kit for
your own pack (include a copy of your vet’s
number).
On the hike, take responsibility for what your
dog does. Many hikers don’t like having to
share the trail with dogs. You should always be
a friendly ambassador for all dog owners while
on a hike. Practice “low impact hiking,” mainly
meaning 1) Don’t leave dog feces on the trail,
2) Only hike where dogs are allowed, 3) Stay on
the trail, 4) Don’t allow your dog to chase
wildlife, 5) Step off the trail and wait with
your dog while other hikers pass, 6) Don’t allow
your dog to bark at those who pass, and most
important, 7) Always use a leash—this will keep
everyone safe on the trail.
Pay extra attention to safety matters when
you’re hiking with your dog. Though dogs can't
get poison ivy, they can transfer it to you.
Other nuisance plants include stinging nettle
that lurks on the side of many trails and even
the slightest brush will deliver troublesome
needles into a dog's coat. Nasty thorns can also
blanket trails that we in shoes may never
notice. If your dog has tender paws, dog booties
are available to prevent pads from cracking
while trotting across rough surfaces. Used in
winter, dog booties provide warmth and keep ice
balls from forming between toe pads when hiking
through snow. Canine hikers, especially if you
confine your adventures to well-trod paths, can
spend a lifetime in the woods and encounter
little more than deer and squirrels. The
wildlife is there but the presence of a dog will
keep most animals deeper in seclusion. Shy
creatures such as rattlesnakes are found in
every state in America. If your dog is bitten by
a snake it won't be necessarily fatal but get
him to a veterinarian with as little movement as
possible as soon as possible. A more likely
meeting is with porcupines. They won't run from
a dog and any encounter can wind up with your
dog impaled by quills that will work into the
skin and easily cause infection. Less dangerous,
but equally distressing, is a rendezvous with a
skunk, another animal that feels comfortable
standing up to a dog.
Hot, humid summers do dogs no favors. With no
sweat glands and only panting available to
disperse body heat, dogs are much more
susceptible to heat stroke than we are.
Unusually rapid panting and/or a bright red
tongue are signs of heat exhaustion in your pet.
A good rule of thumb is to carry eight ounces of
water for every hour of planned hiking. Your
dog can even learn to drink happily from a
squirt bottle. Beware of allowing it to drink
too generously from surface water since even
fast-flowing streams can be infested with
microscopic protozoa called Giardia, which will
wreak havoc on your dog's intestinal system.
Some of your most rewarding hikes with your dog
will be in the mountains where the weather can
change in a moment's notice. It may be cooler at
higher altitudes but the sun will burn more
intensely. When hiking in extremes of
temperature remember to take plenty of breaks,
both your sake and your dog's.
While most hikers head first for America's
national parks, as a general rule, dogs in
national parks are welcome only "anywhere a car
can go." This means your dog can hike only along
roadways and walk around parking lots. In most
national parks dogs can also go in picnic areas
and stay in campgrounds. If you are hiking in
Canadian national parks, bring your dog
along--there are few prohibitions against dogs
there. You will find national monuments are a
mixed bag for active dog owners. Some, like
Dinosaur National Monument or White Sands
National Monument, allow dogs on most trails
while others, Devil's Tower or Cedar Breaks for
instance, ban canine hikers from all trails.
National forests, under the stewardship of the
Department of Agriculture and not the Department
of the Interior like national parks, offer the
best hiking opportunities for dog owners. Dogs
are permitted on most national forest trails,
although access can sometimes be remote. Many
times national forest lands surround national
parks so you can get your dog on a trail by
driving just a bit farther. National grasslands
are cousins of national forests, and you can
expect to have your dog accompany you on your
hike. Hiking opportunities are limited, however,
as there typically aren't many trails in a
national grassland. National recreation areas,
as the name implies, are managed to maximize
public use and are for humans and dogs. Many
trails in national recreation areas are open to
off-road vehicles, mountains bikes, and horses.
These types of trails will invariably be open to
dogs as well. You can expect to find good canine
hikes in almost any national recreation area.
Dogs are seldom allowed on trails at National
seashores but happily most (the southeastern
national seashores are an exception) allow dogs
on the beach year-round. National lakeshores are
good bets for canine hikers as dogs are allowed
on many trails in these parks along the Great
Lakes. National historical parks are hidden gems
for canine hikers. There are few bans on dogs in
national historical parks. In addition to
learning a thing or two about American history,
these parks often feature interesting hiking,
such as the rolling hills of eastern
Pennsylvania in Valley Forge Historical Park,
the mountains of Harpers Ferry Historical Park,
the wild Potomac River of the Chesapeake & Ohio
National Historical Park, to name a few. State
Parks are always a good bet for canine hikes;
California being the most critical exception.
Dogs are not allowed on trails in California
state parks. With spectacular state parks like
Ricketts Glen in Pennsylvania, Hocking Hills in
Ohio and Custer in South Dakota, your dog can
vacation happily without the national parks. So
grab that leash and hit the trail! And have as
much fun as your dog. |
